Day 1

Troon Ferry, Brodick and the luscious Cladach Beach House

The September Glasgow long weekend had finally arrived! After an early start on the Friday morning, I boarded the Troon Ferry to Brodick, Isle of Arran. The sun lit up the sea as the ferry departed, the curved waves forming octopus tentacles in the wake of the ferry. What a beautiful metallic glimmer!

After stowing my bags in the very nice luggage rack inside, I meandered to the outside upper deck and bagsied one of the red chairs with a good view and soaked up the warmth of the sun. The sun did wonders, washing away the fatigue of my screen tired eyes. How good for the heart and soul being in the big wide open leaving the desk behind.

The ferry arrived and the great host of people disembarked. I wandered along the shore road, taking some photos of the view as I did. Mini golf was underway outside the Little Rock Cafe. Was that a miniature Firth of Forth Rail Bridge I sighted? Grabbing a vegan snickers slice and the usual chai latte, I perched on a bench in the sun outside the cafe and read my paperback novel until it was check in time for the guest house.

Following a relaxing cuppa at the guest house, I thought I’d go for a wander along the coastal walk to Brodick Castle Gardens. The tide was in so there were parts of the Fisherman’s Walk underwater, meaning I had to skirt around the golf course to get to the dry parts of the walk further on. Finally managed to find my way (with the help of some locals) and at the end of the beach I sighted some people having a drink outside a shack. Interesting.

Upon further investigation (quite simply this meant venturing around the corner), the Arran Botanicals at the Cladach Beach House came into view. Tempted. However, I put the thought aside for the present moment, being keen to find the entrance to the Brodick Castle Gardens. Unfortunately, I couldn’t figure out how get into the gardens as good old Google maps only showed the route along the car road - no way was I walking on that. At a bit of loss at what to do, I headed the opposite direction to the car road (that made complete sense at the time…), past Arran Aromatics and the brewery. I kept walking down on the footpath, doing my usual, having no clue when the path would end, but figured it would somehow provide a solution. For a natural born pessimist, I can be surprisingly optimistic at times! I love the sun, but had overdressed for the weather and had really started to get overly warm and sweaty. The footpath eventually ended so perplexed I went back the way I had come.

Haha, now going this way I could see the big sign saying Cladach ‘Pedestrian Access’ to Castle. Oh my! Talk about having to go the wrong way before you could figure out the right way.

I’d read somewhere you could see seals from Brodick Castle so I clambered up paths and over tree roots, through the Plant Hunter’s trail and down towards what I thought was the sea. The hoodie I had on, together with carrying around the heavy backpack and tripod, was definitely not helping the ‘I am way too overheated and thirsty’ situation. At some point I hit a fence (well not literally). I imagine the fence is there to stop people from the danger of the car road that nestles between the castle grounds and the sea and also to stop people from traipsing into the grounds from all and sundry directions. Either way, the sun had began to set, so I figured I had been lost enough for the day. I thought back to the Arran Botanicals and the fantasy of a nice gin cocktail with ice at the beach house drew me on, over more tree roots and paths. And then, like a long awaited oasis before my eyes, there was the Cladach Beach House across the road.

*Thirsty dinosaur hankering after my ‘Pink’ Arran Botanicals Gin cocktail*

I could already taste that gin on my lips and trickling down cool and refreshing down my throat. Mmm.

The Cladach Beach House had a cool vibe and a good variety of cocktails to choose from. The dance music playing reminded me of Hedkandi. If fact, for all I know if may have been Hedkandi. I just found out Hedkandi are still going and have a Youtube channel. Currently listening to the Hedkandi Radio 2025 #HKR44/25 NU COOL SPECIAL (I do like a bit of house music).

After ordering ‘the Pink’ cocktail, I pulled up a bar stool next to an upended wine barrel on the sand. As you can see, this dinosaur was just as thirsty as me, hankering after my cocktail.

A second cocktail followed, this time a red one, and just as enjoyable. Alas, all good things must come to an end and I finally had to leave the beach house (they shut at 6pm). I walked back along the beach to Brodick (very happy with myself I might add and was of the mind that Arran was just perfect) and ordered a delicious pizza at The Parlour, which topped it all off.

A travel journal about Arran wouldn’t be complete without a photo of Goat Fell. Speaking to folk I work with, the climb up Goat Fell takes about 4-6 hours and the views are stunning (provided you get a clear day of course). The climb wasn’t for me this time, however, as much as I loved Goat Fell’s majesty.

Day 2

Brodick Castle, Red Squirrels and the delightful Auchrannie Spa

I had a bit of a slower start the next day, lingering over breakfast and cups of tea. Knowing the path I would take after yesterday’s discoveries, I left the guest house around 10ish to get to the Red Squirrel Hide at the castle about 10.30am (not that I yet knew the location of the hide, but I soon would). By the time I found the hide (it wasn’t that hard to find in the end don’t worry), it had started to drizzle. There were a couple of folk already in the hide. They kindly squeezed over to give me a good viewing spot on the centre bench and what good viewing there was!

There were a few red squirrels, I think, taking turns to speedily run up the trees to the peanut feeder boxes or down the trees depending on which box you were viewing. The box lids would pop up, the red squirrel would jump in, the box lid would pop down, the squirrel would quaff some peanuts or take them in their mouth to be buried in the ground. Then just as fast the box lid would pop up, the squirrel would jump out, the lid pop down and off the squirrel would be up the tree and racing further into the canopy of branches or down the tree and racing across the ground. Sometimes they chased each other in a manic fashion, so fast it was hard to keep track of. Seeing these squirrels really did make my day, after trudging around the previous afternoon in a bit of a haze. I posted a video on Instagram where you can see the speed at which the squirrels played and ran and part way through one squirrel is digging a food cache furiously (to put the peanuts in I assume). I could have stayed to watch a long longer, but another couple of folks came in and as with all these things, it’s impolite to hog a space to oneself, considering everyone wants to see these little darling squirrels just as much as I do.

I also did a few quick sketches of the red squirrels of which are a couple below.

I recently bought some A4 handmade 100% cotton-rag paper papers (250gsm) on sale as I am keen to start experimenting with paper with a more natural look and a deckle edge. My watercolour painting of a red squirrel from Brodick Castle below, the first time using this paper, is below. I liked that the paper absorbed the watercolour relatively well and I could hand stretch it at intervals while painting. Having to wet paper first and then stretch on board is all a bit of a pfaff and I am trying to avoid where possible. I decided not to heavily work this piece, being quite content with the fresh look as fitting for the speed and lightness of the red squirrel. Here included is a close up with the deckle edge so you can get a better idea of how the deckle edge looks. I thought you might also like to see a very short video of one of the squirrels running up and down the tree at an incredible speed to the peanut box feeder.

*Red Squirrel at Brodick Castle, Watercolour on Paper*

By the time I left the hide, the rain was coming down in earnest. I walked up the well sign posted track to Brodick Castle. What better way to spend a rain day than to explore a castle. The castle had a very nice shop where I bought a National Trust Raytheon Honey Lip Balm which I have found fab so far. I thought the walk through the castle with the various exhibitions nicely laid out and interesting. The 12th Duke of Hamilton sadly brought the family close to financial ruin, which I understand is essentially why the castle is no longer in the hands of the family today. He loved horse racing and the numerous paintings of horse races in the castle attest to his patronage of an artist(s) who painted these beautiful creatures (horses that is, though I am sure jockeys are beautiful too!). Sorry, I didn’t think to look at the time for artist signatures on the paintings, so I don’t know who painted them.

Leaving Brodick Castle, I trailed past the bird feeders where there were quite a few tiny birds, including blue tits, coal tits and more. The path led me further onto the cafe. Just outside the cafe a red squirrel appeared frozen on the path with legs star-spangled and looked up at me stunned. It ran off and I headed inside to grab a bite to eat and keep out of the rain for the time being. After a while I figured I should explore more of the grounds. The weather had got increasingly wet and miserable (if I’m honest) but I persisted in my walk. Delusionally, I initially thought after visiting the castle I would catch the bus to Sannox/Corrie where I had been told I had a good chance of seeing seals. I waited for the bus, sheltering from the rain, debating with myself whether I should continue with this plan as the rain was truly pelting it down and the sky even more grey than before. I finally decided I didn’t like my chances of exploring Sannox/Corrie in this weather, with paths potentially underwater and slippery rocks, and that the time had come for Plan B. As I headed back down the beach, towards Shore Road, the wind picked up even more and I battled with my umbrella.

Even with my wind tunnel proof umbrella (Blunt, thank you very much you are a Godsend in Scotland), wind still hammered the rain onto the front of my jeans till my legs were soaked and my feet crinkly in those now wet socks (since then someone has told me if you wear merino wool socks your feet still stay warm - mmm maybe that is for a future experiment). Getting closer to the guest house, I came across this heron who looked totally unfazed by the weather.

*French Fox takeaway - coley, new potatoes and broccoli*

So what was my Plan B? Well, I am so glad you asked! I dropped my gear at the guest house and with a not small measure of excitement, started the walk to the leisure facilities at Auchrannie Resort to use the leisure/spa facilities. It kept raining all the way there, but I forged on past the French Fox (which gave me an idea for dinner that night) and while my shoes got soggier by the minute, I knew that not too far way the steam and sauna rooms called my name. Eventually through all those puddles and again, getting a bit lost, I found the entrance to leisure facilities. Yes! I paid over my money, got a towel and in a short space of time found myself walking past the pool where all the kiddos and their families were having fun. Up ahead I sighted the steam room, opened the door and found it completely empty. Yippee! I stretched out on the bench, closed my eyes and soaked in that steamy warmth. I must have been so still, absorbed by my delight at being all cosy and able to relax, and in there a bit too long, that one of the leisure people checked in to see if I was okay (I think the sign said you should only be there for about 10 minutes then have refresh shower before heading back in). To tell the truth, I’ve had a few experiences now where people think I may be dead or comatose because I can go absolutely motionless, it scares them! The sauna was just as good. I love the smell of the wood in saunas and they had wooden slatted pillows that you could lay down and rest your head upon. SO sweet, SO deliciously GOOD. Well unfortunately, I couldn’t stay there forever and had to head out into the rain again, but I knew that dinner from the French Fox awaited. Coley, new potatoes and broccoli - my choice from the menu that night.

Day 3

Sannox Bay, the elusive Otter and Lochranza Distillery

Thankfully the next day, the rain clouds had cleared and the sun shone out from the white clouds. Still looking for seals, I caught the bus to Sannox Bay (Glen Cottage stop), not really having any idea where to go. When in doubt, see where the hill walkers are going and follow them (note that there were walking trails published on the internet by various people but they seemed too much effort to comes to grip with - lazy I know). I found the stepping stones across Sannox Burn, very picturesque, and made it to the trail to the beach. There were a goodly number of little wagtails flittering about on the beach. I thought I’d set up my telescope to get a closer look at the wagtails and while I did so, I noticed there was a breaking of the water and a dark shape popped up. Before I could get a better glimpse, a couple walked down there with binoculars and the brown blob moved further out. Turned out to be an otter. Only managed a few elusive glimpses after. I packed up and as I walked down the coastal trail I could see it bob up every now and again as it swam further along the coast.

Looking for a cafe and being clueless where to find one, I followed a 25 minute trail to North Sannox thinking there might be a cafe there. Lol, as lovely as the walk was along the burn, it ended up in a car park. I walked all the way back, running out of time to catch the bus to Lochranza Distillery, and realised as I returned to Glen Cottage and walked along the road a further 3 minutes, there were the tearooms I had read about! Oh well, too late, I had run out of time and went back to the bus stop.

Lochranza Distillery is situated in Glen Chalmadale. The view is like a mini highlands on the mainland with white sheep dotting the hill. I didn’t see any deer or golden eagles unfortunately. Looking at photos of golden eagles, I definitely missed out there - they look incredible. I took comfort from a tasty spinach and falafel burger, Breckland Orchard elderflower posh pop (very nice) and a little treat of Arran Gold Cream Liquor after that at the Cask Cafe. I took my time, enjoying the pretty view and the music, particularly Van Morrison’s Moondance… can I just have one more moondance with you, my love.

I caught the bus back to a beautiful evening on Shore Road in Brodick. Overlooking the sea a memorial had been built in remembrance of a person’s beloved son who had been named Arran Brodick (after the Isle) and had sadly died young. This young person had lived in Perth, Western Australia. Strange that I can be on the other side of the world from where I grew up and yet here so far away, this connection to my youth. The sunset was rather fitting. I liked seeing the iconic Caledonian MacBrayne in the distance.

Day 4

Common Seals at Kildonan

My last day on the Isle of Arran, I set the alarm early to catch the bus to Kildonan in my final endeavour to sight common seals. Common and yet still so lovely. Common and yet like so many of our precious wildlife is in decline. The situation makes me unbelievably upset and I feel helpless.

We humans have a lot to answer for in our poor stewardship and lack of awareness in our actions. I know that there is a lot of good that is happening in this space but will it be too late? I keep asking myself the things I can do to help, even though they seem so small, like doing my best to stay away from unnecessary packaging, eating less fish and meat, supporting conservation, keeping a large distance between me and the seals so I won’t disturb them, keep noise and movement to a minimum. Keep a little garden with some water and some bee friendly flowers (which the badger is digging up regularly looking for worms but at least my garden is helping the badger I hope). And pray. Pray that these populations that are struggling, being robbed of their environment to thrive, that there would be a miracle and abundance. And for myself, a selflessness to give what I can to help, even when I want to hold on to all my resources, whether that be time, money or love. I am very imperfect and feel small in the midst of the devastation.

I got to Kildonan and found the coastal walk. I couldn’t believe it, at last, in the distance there were shapes on the rocks close to the shore. I set my telescope on a grassy knoll as far away as I could, so that they were little blobs of movement in the distance. I hadn’t used the set up with my mobile for a few years so it took what felt forever to setup. The Viking optic mobile attachment is really useful as the zoom in my phone gives me more zoom to the telescope which is second hand and not very powerful. There were 5 or 6 common seals, so breathtaking, one of which was a little white pup. I managed to get some videos and take some photos. And do some sketching. The rain clouds set in and I developed an inventive (or rather simple depending on how you view it) method of tucking my umbrella inside my hoodie and keeping it in place by zipping up my rain jacket. This helped keep the rain off my sketchbook, though wasn’t the easiest as I had to tilt the telescope at the best angle and sketch at the same time. Some of the pages got a bit wet. The sketches are basic but have a sweetness to them I think. Just felt so special to be out on the coast with these beautiful sweet creatures. An utter blessing.

As with Day 2 on Arran, the rain got heavier and my hands had began to get that cold shaky thing going on. I packed up my gear and got in the way of thinking about some lunch. I’d researched the Forest of the Falls Cafe beforehand and Google maps had told me it was a mere 15 minutes walk away. Haha, I hadn’t factored into the equation that the 15 minute walk meant a very steep incline up to where the falls were. With the wind picking up and the rain bearing down and walking with a heavy laden backpack (and that tripod again), no joke, my heart hammered in my chest and I thought a heart attack was in the making! Not for the faint hearted (and in saying that, I am probably not as fit as I could be, so for those of you who are super fit it probably would have been a breeze, I don’t want to put you off). I had to stop every few minutes to have a break and catch my breath, making it a very long 15 minutes. Eventually made it to the cafe, which had a load of people already. I really liked the way the walls were covered in wood sheets that were engraved/laser cut (as they had a burnt look) with forest scenes. A little robin sang on a tree, a little mole crept out from a corner and there were other creatures. A good way to spend my time while waiting for the hearty lunch that made its way to my table.

Well if you have made it to the end of Day 4 - well done! To reward you, here is a gorgeous video of one of the common seals doing a little stretch. I have posted this on my Instagram already but I could watch all day long!

Isle of Arran, Scotland