Linlithgow, Scotland
I’m currently on the train to Glasgow and just before Polmont there is a field with the most stunning array of wildflowers, purples, yellows, whites. Listening to different versions of Everywhere by Fleetwood Mac as it seems to suit the summer mood. Since I am on the train, thought it would be fitting to recount my journey to Linlithgow back in mid-June. That day had dawned sunny, a warm 15 degrees, after the previous day of rainy downpour. I did my usual rush up the hill and made it to the 9.35am Scotrail train to Dunblane, which stops at Linlithgow, with a minute to spare. Linlithgow is a historic town that I've gone past on the express train to Glasgow often enough, and seen the Linlithgow Palace towers, but never ventured off onto the platform and into the town. So after all these years, I finally made the time to step off that train carriage.
With my backpack full of art supplies, water and the ever useful umbrella (thunderstorms had been forecast) I sauntered onto the High Street. Traditional stone buildings prettily lined the street. A few cafes were present, which made me happy to see. I am always keen for a cafe with a good chai latte.
I’d booked an advanced ticket to Linlithgow Palace via Historic Environment Scotland. The palace wasn't too far from the station and the high street. A friendly woman greeted me at the entrance to the palace. We had a wee chat, her daughter currently visiting Australia.
Winged Stag, Water fountain Linlithgow Palace
Window Seats, Linlithgow Palace
The entrance into the palace led straight into the courtyard. Lo and behold, what a stunning water fountain. Beautifully carved from top to bottom and round about, showing mythical creatures, such as the winged stag above, a unicorn and mermaid, and a circle consisting of eagle, lion, ox and people. This circle was of particular interest to me, but more on than later hopefully over the coming months.
I followed the signs to the first floor, walking up the spiral stone staircase. I loved the massive rooms resplendent with their stone window seats looking over Linlithgow Loch. I could easily imagine looking out at the view back in the day when the palace was a home to the royals. I walked through adjoining rooms, including a chapel and a long thin room full of artifacts.
Minstrel, Linlithgow Palace
View from window seats, Linlithgow Palace
I came across another large room with stone window seats and this lovely minstrel carved into one of the walls. Another gorgeous view overlooking the Loch greeted me. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find any details on the artists/stonemasons who designed and carved the impressive stonework in the castle, but if anyone knows I'd be happy to hear about them.
Jackdaws, Linlithgow Palace
I traced back to the rooms I had come from, intent on going higher up in the castle. As I was headed up the stairs to one of the towers, I sighted a little nook. Apparently when the royals were in residence, the servants slept anywhere they could find a space, even in little spaces like these. Out through the barred gate I could see jackdaws perched on the ramparts. A smaller jackdaw looked like it was too scared to fly off the rampart so while others were flitting back and forth it kept looking over but didn't seem to be able to make the jump. A fellow jackdaw kept flying back to sit with the smaller bird and then flying off again. An unfriendly seagull swooped down on the smaller jackdaw twice, once forcing it to fly off the rampart briefly. I started sketching this little hesitant jackdaw with SC Faber-Castell Pitt pen but the M Pitt pen seemed to better capture the sensitivities of the little jackdaw so I switched over. Here are a couple of close ups of my sketches.
Little Jackdaw sketches close up
Little Jackdaw sketches close up
I eventually made it to Queen Margaret’s Bower for the amazing view at the top of the palace across Linlithgow and the loch. I glanced down and I couldn't see the smaller jackdaw anymore on the ramparts so maybe it had courageously flown away.
As much as I loved the palace and the pleasant vibe there, ye old stomach began getting hungry so I thought I would check out St Michael's Parish Church on the way to one of the cafes.
St Michael’s Parish Church
The Sunday service had just finished and I received a warm welcome at the door. The church has a long history, dating back from the Middle Ages and has some beautiful stained glass windows. There is a link to a YouTube video describing the windows in more detail on the St Michael's website here. My favourite stained glass windows would have to be the Creation window at the front of the church (pictured), as well as a fiery piece inspired by Pentecost. The Creation window, starting from the bottom, depicts the depths of the ocean, with ships sailing on its surface, and above those a beautiful panorama of animals - lions, lambs, stags, donkeys (maybe horses, I couldn’t tell for sure, but equine animals of some sort), egrets, pelicans.
White Dove Coffee Roasters
By now, the hunger for food had properly set in, so I went in search of some of the cafes I had seen earlier and decided on White Dove Coffee Roasters on the High Street. Friendly staff and a tasty tomato and basil soup with sandwich and a coconut milk chai latte. Perfect thank you, exactly what I needed. You’ll have to excuse the photo of the panini which I had already taken out a couple of bites out of - seriously I needed to eat!
Charged up from the lunch break, I picked up the backpack and took the road back towards the palace, but this time I veered right. On entering the park, just before entering the Linlithgow Peel, I heard live music. Looking up the rise to my left, there was a Scottish Trad music session going on the park, music folk sitting amongst the colourful roses and playing and singing tunes. How bonny! FYI I’m currently expanding my Scots vocab, leaning phrases like dinnae fash (don't worry) and stour (dust). Think that's how you spell it, one of my Scottish friends explained it to me. Oh and ‘jaggy’ (sharp) - seems obvious now that one, but at the time I was like, what?
Ah how nice to finally wander around the Linlithgow Peel (the area surrounding the Linlithgow Loch). The path meanders past the castle, down to the outskirts of the town where the swans and ducks were aplenty and then around the other side where there seems to be some additional paths heading off the main track. The walk is pleasant and lovely with the summer foliage, with elderflowers in bloom. Those rain clouds had began to gather by now, so I didn't know how long I had before the rain.
Linlithgow Palace, view from Linlithgow Peel
Thistle, Linlithgow Peel
Some summer rain began to fall but only lightly, so I took a place on the grass with my rain jacket doubling as a waterproof blanket and sketched the little jackdaw for a couple of hours, experimenting with a watercolour artboard that my art mentor recommended me and a mixed media effect of pencil, watercolour and the Faber-Castell Pitt pens.
Overall a lovely day out and one I would recommend.